I must admit that while I enjoyed parts of Bali, (its funny memories most of which I haven't even begun to type out here) but I surprisingly did not enjoy it as much as I thought I would. Here is a place I have heard about for many years, from friends, from books, even now from popular movies! (we all remember Eat, Pray, Love?).... Bali is apparantly a wonderful and magical place where people fall in love; either with one another or with the land, the people... the Gods even.
However this spirit I have heard about did not touch me in the way that it has with other people. While I loved the culture I did not think very well of the cuisine.
"Thailand: 1 Bali: 0 " As Oliver put it on day 3. I slapped him and said to give it time and we'll find better dishes along our travels... but over all Balinese food (ok- Babi Guling* aside), you just didn't rock my world. Food from Sumatra and other parts of Indonesia is another story. I love you Sumatran jackfruit curry!!!!
One of our best, most memorable meals in Bali was actually one of the "BEST" steaks we've ever had.... and boy I mean EVER!!! The sad part was... there was nothing about it.
We encountered some divers on Menjangan who told us to go to KUTA for a night and head to this place called "Rumors" if you would like to "try the best steak you'll ever had." They had been in Bali for 14 days total and had eaten there 5 times.
We were warned to stay away from Kuta, the seedy beach side town full of drunken Aussies and loud nightlife... but Oliver wanted to surf, and I wanted to try this legendary steak so we went! ...and you know what? It was awesome!
Ubud was great for culture, and Bali was nice for beaches, but I didn't feel that I connected with the place partly because I couldn't relax there since every time one walks down the street in Bali he/she is bombarded by people asking you "tranport? transport?" or offering you shirts, tours, massage, or a whole number of things quite aggressively (at least more than what I'm use to.)It doesn't help that when you walk away quickly you must take care not to step on the mass amounts of sidewalk offereings to the Gods, thus creating an obstacle course of sorts.
Now from what I hear a walk in Bali makes a walk in India look like a fucking cake walk (hecklers galor in India) but coming from Thailand, where I am in the lap of luxury with heckler-free zones I found it very difficult to not be on guard of having to force "no"s upon people. This also made me create a self-built wall around myself from connecting with people since the moment someone greeted me with a smile I already felt like they would sell me some if I lingered for too long.
...sigh...
All that said... I'm glad I went. My first days in Bali I will never forget, riding my bike beachside in Sanur taking in the temples, offerings, beaches, and smiles. Sadly though, you have not touched in in that magic place Bali, and it saddens me since you are the Second place** that I have ever travelled where I have not fallen in love. That's ok though... you can't win them all...
Even as I write this I am thinking of even more fond memories we had... like getting to watch a midnight cremation ceremony on the beach in Lovina, making friends and meeting Nung-Ah the owner of Gandra house (he and his smile WAS one of the main highlights of our time there). Our day trip to the Bali Bird park was awesome!...
....and Tanah Lot Temple... and ofcourse, diving that amazing shipwreck at Tulamben. We won't forget that.
(* delicious suckling pig grill on a spit with Balinese spices best eaten with you right hand and a side of rice!)
(**The first place where I have not fallen in love with the land, people place was Cambodia. Cambodia can be a difficult pill to swallow. It is a hard country, full of struggle sadness and all too recent echos of countrymen killing countrymen. Let it be known that it's not that I didn't like Cambodia. -I would return to Cambodia before Bali.- but Cambodia isn't a country to love, it is a country to feel. If no one told you what to feel you would feel her. She is viceral, She is sprase, deserted and a pre-carpet bombed landscape that can leave you breathless... while the hard faces of it's children can leave you shaken and stirred. In short, Cambodia is anything but soft.... it is real, very real though.
...But that's a story for another time.)
As the plane took off we reflected, and Oliver and I found that we were quite relieved to get back to Thailand.
No comments:
Post a Comment